Animal-Derived Ingredients

Another category of ingredients poorly welcomed among natural beauty lovers is animal-derived ingredients, which are universally present in cosmetics, with applications ranging from mere

emulsifiers to dermal fillers. Many consumers prefer to exclude animal by-products from their skin care products, mostly because of veganism or because of heavy processing and possible contamination of such ingredients. Usually, products that are free of animal byproducts say “vegan friendly” on the packaging.

Manufacturers should also specify the source of an ingredient if it could be either animal or non-animal derived.

The animal by-products listed in the following paragraphs are among the

most commonly used in the cosmetics industry:

Albumin

Albumin is a major blood plasma protein, also present in egg whites. Mostly

bovine-sourced, it is used in cosmetics for its wrinkle-smoothing effect.

Carmine

Also known as cochineal, crimson lake, or E120, this deep red pigment, used in

food and makeup, is derived from carminic acid obtained from the scales of insects.

Collagen and Gelatin

Collagen is a protein that makes up the majority of connective tissues in animals.

It is widely used in cosmetic surgeries as a dermal filler and in many other

medical applications. Gelatin is used in cosmetics as a non-gelling, thickening or

film-forming agent. It is often listed as hydrolyzed collagen. Collagen can also

be marine sourced, from fish. It is often sold as a powder and included in antiaging creams.

Elastin

As its name indicates, elastin confers elasticity to tissues of the skin, blood

vessels, lungs, bladder, and others. Elastin is a hydrolyzed protein that can be

added to cosmetic products to improve skin tone and elasticity.

Glycerin

Glycerin, or glycerol, is an alcohol that can be obtained from vegetable or

animal sources. Animal-sourced glycerin is a by-product of soap production that

uses animal fat. Glycerin can also be a petroleum derivative. It is a humectant,

which helps skin retain moisture. It is also used in the perfume industry as a

solvent, as well as in many other industrial applications.

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronan or HA, is a natural component of the

human body, mainly in the extracellular matrix. It is a major component of the

vitreous humor of the eye and the synovial fluid of cartilage. It is also present in

the basal layer of the epithelium at the level of the keratinocytes. Besides its

numerous medical applications, HA is widely used in cosmetics as an antiwrinkle agent, humectant, and collagen-promoting agent. Commercial HA is produced from bacteria through fermentation or isolation, or from animal sources such as synovial fluid.

Keratin

Keratin is a major protein of the skin, hair, and nails that is widely used in cosmetics, especially in hair products. Many keratin products may also contain formaldehyde, which is a highly toxic substance.

Lanolin

Lanolin is wool wax. Secreted by the sebaceous glands, it coats the wool

filaments of sheep. It is a powerful skin moisturizer that provides a semiocclusive skin barrier. It is widely used in baby products and breastfeeding nipple ointments. The United States Pharmacopeia regulates lanolin and imposes limits on its pesticide content.

Placenta extract

The placenta is a selective exchange organ that links the fetus to the mother’s

uterine wall. The most commonly used placenta extract is sheep placenta extract,

which is used in hair products and anti-aging skin creams. Human placenta

extract injections are also available as skin-rejuvenating treatments. Even though

it is rich in nutrients and hormones such as estrogen and progesterone, the use of

human placenta extract is associated with cultural disputes, as well as a number

of restrictions and health warnings.

Squalene and Squalane

Squalene is a naturally occurring compound that is mainly obtained from shark liver oil. It can also be obtained from vegetable sources such as olives. Squalane is the hydrogenated, saturated derivative of squalene. Squalene has many

applications and is sometimes used as an adjuvant in vaccines to increase

immune system responsiveness. Both squalene and squalane are used as

moisturizers and emollients in cosmetics.

Tallow

Tallow is usually obtained from beef fat tissues but can also come from pork and

other animals. Carcasses from slaughterhouses, farms, and butchers are

processed to separate fat from bone and protein. Tallow is produced through this

rendering process and can be edible. It is also widely used in soap production

and for animal feed.